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Procida
the smallest and least well known of the Parthenopean
islands, off the beaten track of mass tourism, is an
unspoilt, tranquil island which preserves its local
characteristics that make it so unique.
A little
bit of history
Inhabited from remote times(Mycenaean traces
at Vivara, Roman tombs at “Campo Inglese”),
the island was certainly inhabited by the Greeks and
the Latins before the Romans.
There is clear proof of Barbarian invasions after the
fall of the Roman Empire and of the succeeding Saracen
raids. Around the year 1000 the Normans installed a
feudal state under the family of “Da Procida”,
the famous leader of which was that “Giovanni
da Procida”, protagonist of the Sicilian Vespers.
In 1400 the “D’Angiò” conceded
Procida as a feud to the “Cossa” and then
to the “D’Avalos”.
Charles III of the Bourbons elected Procida as a hunting
reservation; this was the period, under the Bourbons,
that the island, with its marine and ship building activities
in expansion, was at a peak in economic and cultural
growth. The sailing ships built in Procida’s shipyards
and manned by Procidan seamen travelled the world’s
seas and brought riches to the island. There are many
impressive and elegant family villas which date back
to this period, interesting today for their architecture
and their beautiful gardens. In the 18th century a great
many Procidans belonged to the cultural elite which
made Naples the cultural capital of Europe. “Eusebio
Marcello Scotti”, executed under the Bourbon repression
in 1799, author of, among others, a nautical catechism
on the civil, moral and religious duties of the seaman,
was one of the most noted characters of those worthy
Procidan citizens.
In 1799 Procida supported the Neapolitan republic, the
short history of which inspired, according to some,
the national renaissance, and “Piazza dei Martiri”takes
its name from the 16 Procidans executed there by the
Bourbons.
In the second half of the 19th century the expanse of
mechanic propulsion and a certain local reluctance to
abandon traditional sailing led Procida to lose the
foremost position in shipping it had enjoyed in the
18th and early 19th century. However, Procidans retained
their maritime professionality and are still renowned
today as excellent captains and chief engineers.
Town planning
and architecture
Procida’s urban layout and architecture
are unique. The first settlement developed in the highest
part of the island, now called “Terra Murata”,
and other settlements grew up gradually until the whole
of the island can now be considered as a single inhabited
zone whose three ports are connected by the principal
street “Via Vittorio Emanuele”which then
becomes “Via Giovanni da Procida”. Along
this main road there are several elegant villas, immersed
in their stupendous gardens “which seem imperial
gardens”, whose architecture is that of 18th century
Naples; the oldest settlements, both marine and rural,
are typically Mediterranean in style, featuring arches,
vaults and climbing stairs, to be admired particularly
at “Corricella” and the “Vascello”.
Terra Murata” is the oldest settlement of all,
developed around the Abbey of “San Michele”.
The main structure of the abbey is 17th century but
the main façade is Roman and the abbey is believed
to have been founded on the site of a Roman temple(finds
of a Roman tablet support this belief). It is rich in
artistic treasures among which the valuable lacunar
wooden ceiling decorated in blue and gold whose centre
painting of “San Michele” defeating the
Saracens is attribuited to “Luca Giordano”(an
attribuition currently in question), several valuable
paintings of the 17th century Neapolitan school, an
18th century wooden organ, an extensive library counting
around 8000 ancient volumes, a 17th century wooden choir
stall and other interesting remains of Procida’s
past splendours.
Development of the island in the 18th and 19th centuries
led to the settlements being built at seashore “Sancio
Cattolico” and “Corricella”, and the
growth of little villages “Casale”, “Vascello”,
“Casaliello” and “Spianata”
around the then centre of political and economic life
in “Piazza dei Martiri”. This piazza is
named for the 16 Procidan citizens hanged here following
the brief Parthenopean republic which was brutally repressed
by the Bourbons and a monument stands here dedicated
to the memory of these citizens who died for their ideals
of equality and freedom. Another monument is dedicated
to “Antonio Scialoja”, noted Procidan citizen,
jurist and economist and minister of the first kingdom
of Italy.
The view from the piazza is extremely beautiful and
the surrounding small villages maintain all the characteristics
of Procidan architecture which can be senn at its best
in “Corricella”, a small fishing port. Here
time seems to have stopped. The houses, clustered closely
round the slopes of the bay and built one on top of
the other, are still those of the 17th century and the
intricate tangle of arches, vaults, terraces and stairs,
all colour washed in pastel colours, gives us a visual
example of the values of solidarity and mutual help
which characterise the Procidan way of life.
Here you arrive only on foot and step straight into
an oasis of tranquillity where the sound of human voices
undisturbed by traffic, the colours of the houses and
the sea and the warmth of the sun (the south facing
port has a mild climate all year round) cancel time
and space. “Corricella” has been proposed
as a zone of the world’s heritage under Unesco.
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